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Dirty Macaroni served and ready to eat. Photo source: Judith Salecich 2015.

My husband, Tony, was born in Croatia. He and his family moved to Australia in the 1950s. When I met Tony, at University, I was immediately attracted to him, but when he told me that he and his family came from Croatia – that he was born there – I didn’t believe him. It was not until several months later, when he invited me home to meet his family, that I realised he was not joking.

I remember clearly the first time I visited Tony’s family. It was breakfast time.

Tony’s mum prepared a huge meal, which (to my surprise) consisted of fried eggs and bacon, salad, sliced beetroot, tinned green peas (later I would discover that Tony’s mother really loved these!), slices of cheese and olives. There was plenty of crusty bread too, but no butter. And no cereal. This was all a bit strange for me. Later Tony told me that his family did eat cereal, but on this occasion his mother was trying to impress (Tony’s words), make me welcome and go the “extra mile”. I was the first “Australian” girlfriend Tony had brought home!

Actually, I don’t think Tony’s mum really knew what to serve that would be in keeping with my expectations. It was all a bit awkward. For me, this occasion was the beginning of a huge learning curve, as I began a journey of discovery of food from my husband’s family traditions (some acquired since migrating to Australia) and those of his homeland.

Dirty Macaroni (Šporki Makaruli) is a traditional southern Croatian dish.

Tony’s mother made it often. The dish is famous in Dubrovnik, so Tony and I tried it at a restaurant there when we visited Dubrovnik in December 2004 (read 24 Hours in Dubrovnik). We reckon Tony’s mum’s version tasted just as good!

According to tradition, Šporki Makaruli is served on the feast day of St Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Its name comes from the legend that those who were fed first during the centuries-old feast day celebrations had plenty of meat sauce with their pasta; those who came later received only a smear of sauce (hence “dirty” macaroni).

Tony says his family used to call this dish “Pasta Šuta”. Unlike the Italian fare of the same name, Tony’s mother always used beef steak, not beef mince, for the sauce. Our children used to call it “Baba’s Spaghetti”. Baba is the Croatian equivalent of “Nana”.

Šporki Makaruli (Dirty Macaroni) is a traditional southern Croatian dish
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Šporki Makaruli (Dirty Macaroni) is a traditional southern Croatian dish. Photo source: Judith Salecich 2015.

DIRTY MACARONI (ŠPORKI MAKARULI)

Serves 4-6

Ingredients

500 g shin beef (or gravy beef), diced
2 medium onions, chopped finely
2 cloves garlic, bruised and chopped finely
1 tablespoon (30g) butter
2 sprigs parsley, chopped finely
440 g can whole peeled tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1 tablespoon white wine
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2½ cups chicken stock
pinch cinnamon
3 whole cloves (or pinch ground cloves)
500 g packet Penne pasta
1 tablespoon olive oil and 2 teaspoons salt (for cooking the pasta)
50 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated
salt and pepper to taste

Method

  1. In a large saucepan, over medium heat, sauté chopped onions and garlic in butter. When onions are soft and glassy add diced beef.
  2. Turn up the heat; allow the beef to brown slightly.
  3. Add the chopped parsley, tomatoes and tomato paste. Stir through.
  4. Add the wine, soy sauce, chicken stock, cinnamon, cloves, salt and pepper. Stir thoroughly. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat immediately.
  5. Simmer gently without covering for 2 hours, stirring occasionally. If necessary, add a little hot water.
  6. Add the penne to a large pot of rapidly boiling water, along with the olive oil and salt. Cook until the pasta is al dente. Strain thoroughly.
  7. Stir the meat stew gently through the cooked pasta. Leave for ten to fifteen minutes so that the ingredients blend well.
  8. To serve, sprinkle with grated parmesan.

POSTSCRIPT: If there are any leftovers, store and reheat the next day – it tastes even better then! 

Dirty Macaroni
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Author

Judith Salecich

Writer, researcher, former secondary and tertiary teacher and public servant, wife, mother, grandmother, child of God, photography enthusiast, lover of life, history, food and all things creative.

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6 thoughts on “Home cooking Croatian style: Dirty Macaroni”

  1. Your first breakfast with Tony’s family sounds amazing. Thanks for sharing the pasta recipe. I think I might give it a go next fortnight. Love A

    Reply
    • It was! I was quite overwhelmed. Yes, this pasta dish is wonderful. You will enjoy it. Our whole family loves it. Love, Judy

  2. I’ve been looking for the recipe for years and think I found it! My grandparents were from the Island of Krk in Austria-Hungary which is now Croatia. Grandma made a dish we called “black macaroni” and she said she used “stovepipes”. She used bottom round and it was cut into pieces about 2″ X 3″ and was about an inch thick. My only Aunt who knew how to make it is gone and the recipe was never written down. All my mother knows is Grandma would say the secret was you had to brown the yonyuns (onions)! She used tomato paste and I know it had cloves but I could never get it 100%. I think it is the cinnamon! The stovepipes are riggatoni by the way! I bought my bottom round yesterday and this will be tonight’s dinner!! Thank you for sharing!!

    Reply
  3. Thank you for sharing…..♥️ My mother use to make it years ago, I forgot about it till I saw your recipe I love all the old Croatian recepies…

    Reply

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